GOLDENEYE

When we left Dubrovnik a few days ago, I was fully content that my summer adventure had come to an end. I was exhausted from travel, and my wallet has never been thinner. The restless spirit that I once possessed in the beginning of the voyage was certainly ready for down time. So I boarded the MV Explorer that evening and watched the Dalmatian Coast fade away. "Mission accomplished," or whatever euphemism fits best.

Right now we are refueling just 50 yards from the coast of Gibraltar. A little history lesson:

a British dependency near the southern tip of the Iberian penninsula, at the eastern end of the Strait of Gibraltar; pop. 28,000. Occupying a site of great strategic importance, Gibraltar consists of a fortified town and a military base at the foot of a rocky headland called the Rock of Gibraltar. Britain captured it during the War of the Spanish Succession in 1704 and is responsible for its defense, external affairs, and internal security.

My restlessness is back, with an urge to explore that has never been greater. With only 5-6 hours to spend refueling, the Explorer's company was not allowed to leave the boat. Instead, I sat with my iPod on the lower deck and ate my newly purchased tortilla chips, wondering how great it would be to swim to shore. Although the coast is largely populated with refueling tankers and industry, the Explorer is floating in front of a little beach town. The occasion sea-doo passed in front of me, and I wanted to throw my bag of chips at each one of them.

I am spoiled, but come on! A day to wander the coastal mountains of Gibraltar? I'll have to stop by next time.

-Mark